Vietnam
Northern Vietnam by motorbike: Sapa, Ha Giang and tea in the mountains
Northern Vietnam is where the trip slowed down for me: mountain roads, tea fields, and a family that gave me a bed for the night.
Getting to Sapa
I bought an evening bus ticket to Sapa from a travel agency. From Sapa you can rent a motorbike and explore the surrounding valleys. Street food and mango are cheap on the way.
Rent a good motorbike
Half a day into my ride my bike started using fuel too fast and was hard to start. I returned it and rented a better one. Test the engine and brakes, take photos of the bike and refuel regularly in mountains where petrol stations are far apart.
Beyond the main road
I left the popular route with a travel friend and rode past tea fields, small villages and viewpoints where local children asked about my bracelets. Roads can be damaged by rain and landslides, so check conditions and leave daylight for the way back.
Homestay without a shared language
One evening the nearest accommodation was 40 kilometres away. A local family offered me a bed. We talked through a voice translator on my phone. We ate rice, pork and spicy sauce together. In the morning I showed the children banknotes and coins from Nepal, Thailand, Malaysia and Indonesia. Accept hospitality politely, bring a small gift and do not expect privacy.
Pushy sellers
In Sapa, one seller insisted I buy a large pack of snacks instead of one. Agree on the price first, and do not feel forced to buy.
Tea in Ha Giang
Near Ha Giang I met a tea master who roasted tea and ran a school for local children with European volunteers. We climbed into an old tea forest, picked leaves and let them wither for an hour before lunch. Tea tours are a good way to see village life.
Cat Ba
Later I booked an island tour in Cat Ba with kayaking and swimming among the limestone islands, a good ending after the mountains.
Frequently asked questions
How do I get to Sapa?
I bought an evening bus ticket from a travel agency. Check current schedules locally.
What should I check before renting a motorbike in Vietnam?
Test the engine and brakes, check fuel use, photograph any damage and make sure the bike starts easily.
Is it safe to stay with local families?
Hospitality is common in remote areas. Accept politely, use common sense, and trust your instincts.